In Bukhara, not far from the ancient Silk Road city’s famous center, there is a museum marked with a golden sign. In Uzbek, Russian, and English the sign declares the site the “House Museum of The Rich Merchant of Bukhara.” Everyone knows exactly whose house it was. Through the gate, and past the trees, there’s a statue of the rich merchant’s infamous son: Fayzulla Khodjaev (1896-1938).

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